![]() ![]() Between it and the bottom bed round each screw are some stiffish springs. It consists of a piece of MDF held down by three (not four) screws and nuts. Saves lots of messing about with the Z-axis screw drives and zeroing.This was printed on top of the latest mod to my Darwin, which I recommend as it I'm glad to say that he has removed the Lewis gun. RepRap water filter from Adrian Bowyer on Vimeo.ĭespite all evidence to the contrary, the noise on the soundtrack is not a Sopwith Camel that has just received the coup de grâce from the Red Barron. (Mark you, I wouldn't drink the output, either.) Here it is filtering some non-potable water as input. Negative that suppresses infill hatching.Īnyway. Setting it to 0 suppresses outline plotting altogether. Setting it to bigger integers gives that number, one inside another. ![]() In the properties file you get a single outline as normal. In general these enhancements mean that you can make the boundary of an object thicker (therefore stronger) and do a sparse infill, thus both saving material and reducing build time overall. It took about 20 minutes in my home Darwin to build. Add that to the fact that you can set the infill width to whatever you like and the part becomes trivial to make. But I've enhanced the host code so that you can plot multiple outlines of an object one inside another. Actually, it's a bit of a cheat: the model for it is a simple disc. Inspired by some of Nophead's experiments, this is a water filter insert made in RepRap. So I am pinning my hopes on anti ooze being the cure of all ills! I am hoping post heating in an oven before removing from the bed will reduce that significantly. It is slightly warped along the length, but it does not matter in this design.I stuck it down with a bit of super glue. I raise the temperature for subsequent layers but I don't wait for it to heat up before I start the second layer because of the ooze problem. That is because I do the first layer at a low temperature to allow it to peel from the raft. The start of the first filament came unstuck.Hopefully the anti-ooze valve will fix that as well. That rubs against the nozzle and picks up burnt plastic from it. Sometimes that leaves a string, sometimes it snaps and leaves a peak of filament sticking up. When the extruder ends a filament run it turns off, lifts slightly and moves quickly to the start of the next run. There is some brown discoloration, which is also indirectly due to ooze.There is scarring where I removed the strings with a knife.In real life you need a few more line segments. AOI is intended for rendering, where surface shading normally interpolates the normals to get a smooth effect. I think this is just a setting in ArtOfIllusion rather than being due to simplifying the mesh to 0.1mm resolution. The faceting on the cylinder is noticeable because it seems to be made of only 32 segments. ![]() I think it came out very well, but being a perfectionist, here are a list of the defects:. We don't have any compatible doors so I did not try it out. It came out slightly under 4mm so I ran a 4.2mm drill through it and then tapped it M5.ĪBS is a bit soft for tapping, so I think a captive nut would be a better design. I didn't teardrop it because below a certain size that is not necessary. I added a 4.2mm hole for tapping for an M5 grub screw. It seems like it would be plenty strong enough. It took 2 hours to make (not including the raft) with a 25% fill. Adrian asked me to try his door handle design in ABS. ![]()
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